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Sud 777's Edgar Nunez has a different approach from the slew of Mexican chefs committed to rescuing and recontextualizing Mexican cuisine; his aim is to create his own contemporary, not-necessarily-Mexican cuisine while using Mexican ingredients. Dishes like a remarkably subtle beef tongue on inky black beans with purslane blossoms and a morita chili sauce, or a salad of tiny heirloom tomatoes with chicharron (fried pork skin) and minced cactus in a Cotija cheese vinaigrette, aren't "Mexican" dishes, but scream Mexican soul. The gently modern space (southwest of Coyoacán) merges indoors with outdoors and is one of the sexiest in town. There's also a stellar wine list, and even a separate sushi bar within the restaurant, Kokeshi, which ranks among the city's best.