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After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and working for the superb Alsatian-born chef Jean Joho at hisEverest in Chicago, Enrique Olvera opened this contemporary-style restaurant in Mexico City in 2000, with the idea of using indigenous ingredients and traditional cooking methods to produce food with French-style refinement. He succeeds admirably with such dishes as romeritos (an herb that looks like rosemary and tastes like spinach) with favas, coriander stems, and chicken dressing; suckling lamb tacos with avocado, peas, cacao, and poblano chiles; oxtail mixiote (meat pit-roasted with chiles, herbs, and spices); and fermented banana with macadamia nuts, plantain vinegar, and chamomile petals. The restaurant's list of mezcals is eye- and palate-opening, and the collection of Mexican wines, especially reds, is one of the country's most extensive.